But the heart and lifeblood of Istanbul breathes from its many neighborhoods and the biggest inhale flows through Istiklal Caddesi (“Istiklal or Independence Avenue”) at night. Istanbul is a city I’ve come to know well over the years and I’m currently using the city as a base to hop around the Caucuses and eastern Europe until mid-May. You’ll find roasted chestnuts (“kestane“), a winter favorite, for sale by vendors on small carts up and down Istiklal Avenue. Along the side-streets of Istiklal is where you’ll find a good assortment of common Turkish street foods. One of my favorites, you eat this common Turkish street food in sandwich form.